Koreatown - by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard

Growing up my dad would make us bulgogi using a Noh brand, .69 cent, powdered and packaged marinade. The meat was smoky, sweet, and savory. Coupled with white rice, it was as Korean as my German-born, wurst-and-kraut-raised father was going to get. Although I do give pops some props for even shopping in the Asian markets decades ago. We received our fair share of stares, but as a kid, I didn't care. I was too captivated by all of the things that I had never laid eyes on before. I didn't know how vast and deep the roots of Korean food went. Fast forward 30 or so years, and I am still enthralled by Asian cuisine and cooking as a whole. There are countless books for Japanese and Chinese preparations, but the same cannot be said for the number of quality texts on Korean available. We can now add Koreatown, by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard to that short list.

This book does an outstanding job of documenting the rich food culture of the Korean people, interpreting it through the eyes of Koreatown's merchants, chefs, and passionate fans far all corners and facets of life. If you ask most people what they know about Korean food, they will almost always mention kimchi. The spicy dish composed of pickled and fermented Napa cabbage. This book provides a handful of approachable recipes for kimchis of all sorts, breaking them down into specific steps. There are also tasty looking recipes for the more popular noodle and bbq dishes such as kalbi. I thought the section on "how to cook Korean food at home without pissing off your neighbors" was a nice touch. 

The absolute best part of this book has to the section of recipes provided by guest chefs such as Corey Lee and Sean Brock. These recipes alone are worth the price of the admission. The Coca-Cola and Gochujang (spicy red pepper condiment) Marinated Chicken Thighs and Toasted Rice Ice Cream are on my next-up list for sure. The photography is enjoyable, with large full-color shots that focus on the food and colorful culture of Koreatowns across America. Written cleanly and concisely, this book focuses on building basic ingredients into complex dishes. Just what I want from a cookbook, something that is entertaining to read, informative and useful. 

Overall I know this will be a book that I refer to many times as I explore the wide variety that Korean food offers. The pages spattered with doenjong, the cover adorned with drops of kimchi marinade. My father and I shop at the huge Korean market in a neighboring city when we have the opportunity. The complex features a continental food-court, and as much as I want to try the hamburger wrapped around a hot dog on a stick (true story), I always order the bibimbap. I guess the apple does not fall far from the tree. 

  

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Donabe : Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking

A Donabe is a Japanese clay pot used in cooking. It is extremely versatile, being used as a rice cooker, a steaming vessel, a smoker, and a slow-cooker similar to a modern day Crock pot. They have been used for hundreds of years in Japanese homes and restaurants. Not surprisingly, there are not many English language books that discuss the donabe or it's usage. Becoming an instant authority on the subject, is Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking by Naoko Takei Moore and Kyle Connaughton.

With luxurious photography and precision writing, Donabe presents a beautiful text that is rich with information. A discussion of the six styles of donabe pots and six types of recipes that accompany them is entertaining and educational. I appreciate reading about the history of the pots. The recipe selections are excellent as well, offering cuisine that is simple, rich, and promises to be delicious. A real donabe is not required for the dishes, you can get by with other vessels, however the finished product may lack the beauty and sophistication that the clay pot brings to the table.

My attempt of the recipe for Chicken Hot Pot turned out fabulously. It was an exquisite take on chicken soup, deep with soul-warming flavors. Some preparations require ingredients that may not be easily sourced at the local supermarket, even in the ubiquitous "Asian food section." Also, you can adapt other recipes to the donabe, do not be limited by the traditional Japanese recipes. I used it to slow cook pork ribs in a delicious BBQ sauce.

Donabe is a wonderful book, full of delicious cuisine and dramatic photography. This is certain to be a resource for me for a long time. Luckily, my wife perused my copy, and thought it a wonderful idea to give us a new donabe for our anniversary gift to ourselves. I can't wait to employ it in a number of dishes.

 

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Book review - This is Camino by Russell Moore & Allison Hopelain

I set out upon the new cookbook This is Camino with eager anticipation and excitement. After all the award-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold had proclaimed that chef Russell Moore is "the ninja of California live-fire cooking." The cover depicting the chef prepping his mise en place in front of a vast cook top, a roaring fire the centerpiece. I was instantly intrigued.

Camino is a restaurant in Oakland, California. It specializes in elegant, Northern Californian style food, heavy on locally and responsibly sourced produce and meats. There are also some recipes that transcend the Bay-area-centric fare, with Old World favorites such as the home cured Sauerkraut, and the Roast Duck Consomme. The authors provide plenty of insight into the development and execution of the restaurant's recipes. I will definitely be trying the Herb Jam recipe, and I was pleased that the majority of the recipes are not out of reach for the home cook. Sure there is some snobbishness, and a bit of hipster-dogma amongst the pages, but it does not take away from the text. I did find a few things on the pretentious side, such as the author describing his love of preserved lemons, even adding them to dishes wherein you cannot taste them. Adding an ingredient should have always have a purpose, I believe. Also in description of the Grilled Chicken Ballotine, the author says that they "needed to make our chicken main-course a little fancier, so that we could charge enough for the pricey Riverdog chickens." 

There is an excellent part in the middle of the book that describes in glorious detail what it is like to work and run the restaurant for one day. It gives the reader an idea of the large number of moving parts a restaurant has, and how one innocent mistake can cause a complete shift's worth of stress. There are recipes for starters and main dishes, as well as a small section on dessert and cocktails. The latter seemed to be an afterthought though, and that is fine with me. If I wanted a book on mixology, I would get one. The book notes that the recipe for Doughnuts was taken from another book entirely, albeit with several small changes. It made me wonder if they were just reaching to fill pages. There are about 75 recipes total in the book, which is not a lot. However it is enough to give you an idea of the chef's focus on hyper-fresh, local ingredients. I did enjoy the discussions on using everything you possibly can from your ingredients with ideas for utilizing the "waste."

Overall, this was an enjoyable read and I am certainly going to attempt a few of the recipes. Visiting this restaurant in the near future is on my list as well, as it is only about a 90 minute drive for me. Bottom line, if you are at all interested in Bay-area cuisine with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients prepared with an open fire, as well as some time-tested favorites with a California flare, this book will prove satisfying. 

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Lucky Peach presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes

Chinese food, or rather American "Chinese" food has a certain mystique surrounding it's preparation and ingredients. The same can be said for really any type of Asian food, from Japanese to Thai or Vietnamese. This often equates to home cooks leaving it for the "professionals" at the ubiquitous strip-mall food joints, mall food courts, and street food vendors. What if I told you that armed with one book, and only one book, you could unlock the secrets behind the preparations of your favorite dishes, and do it from the comfort of your home? Oh and that the recipes easy to prepare. Sounds too good to be true, I know. Many have tried, few have prevailed, that is for sure. You could spend a lifetime studying volumes of information in search of that perfect Kung Pao chicken recipe. But thanks to the guys behind my favorite food magazine, Lucky Peach, we now have an accelerated course in Asian food 101 with their new publication "Lucky Peach presents 101 Easy Asian recipes."

I love the style of writing in this book. It is both informative and interesting to read, along with a hilarious sense of humor. For example, the back cover shows a finished dish with a text bubble exclaiming "100% inauthentic! The recipes are succinct, the steps pared down to the essentials. The book eschews deep-frying and sub-recipes. They spell out exactly what you will need as far as equipment (wok, rice cooker, maybe a mortar and pestle if you are fancy). Where the book really shines is within the descriptions of pantry items, and they include pictures to help when you are shopping at the mega mart and don't know your miso from your tamari. The pantry items are separated into three levels, from beginner to expert. Certain to impress your friends and family. 

The photography is excellent too, capturing the simplicity and deliciousness of each recipe effectively, and making you hungry all the while. Try the pesto ramen for a delicious and easy weeknight meal, or simmer a pot of hot and sour soup on a cold, rainy day. From breakfast to dessert, this book covers all of your favorites. So kick down for a $20 wok next time you are near a Chinatown (I bought mine in San Francisco - hand hammered, carbon steel that only gets better with use) or Amazon that bad boy and get to work. Let this book be your guide in to the wonderful world of Asian cuisine. 

I received this book from Blogging for Books in exchange for my honest review.

Olympia Provisions

Growing up in a German family, we were always eating charcuterie, well before it became a trendy, hurry-and-post-it-on-Instagram item on so many restaurant menus today. Olympia Provisions by Elias Castro provides a glimpse of the work it takes to run not one, but two restaurants that pride themselves on classic and modern charcuterie methods incorporating beautiful, local ingredients. The classy photography is beautifully executed on thick paper, with dazzling full page images. It is written in a clear and professional manner, and I feel it would be appealing to a wide variety of audiences.



The book explores the craft of curing and smoking meats, and provides excellent recipe examples. There are also recipes included from each of their two restaurants, which serve to compliment the accompanied charcuterie products. The recipes do include ingredients that are not often found in the pantries of today. However they are easily sourced via the internet. There are also several pieces of equipment that are necessary when making sausage, such as a grinder and sausage stuffer. Sometimes all that you will need is salt and a string to hang the meat. Yes, most of the recipes take an extended (by today's definition) amount of time. But that is where the patience and passion comes out of those that  are dedicated to the craft. You may have to wait months, up to years, to reap the rewards of your hard work. Using a mix of old World techniques with modern ingredients, the book is an excellent source for beginners to seasoned experts. 

I also appreciated the discussions regarding proper handling of ingredients, and the necessary handling precautions that are inherent with safely producing cured meats. Additionally, the book provides a factual argument regarding the usage of nitrates and nitrites in preservation of meats. This is a hot topic in the realm of charcuterie, with parties on both sides in disagreement and a lot of misinformation floating around internet forums. The book does a nice job explaining the topic in a concise manner, while not losing sight of the bigger picture.
  
Almost at birth my parents exposed me to a myriad of tastes and textures that the world of charcuterie offers. From the chunky-jelly texture of head cheese, to the ultra-smooth silkiness of boudin blanc. Smoked sausages, emulsified sausages, boiled, braised, and grilled sausages were common fare throughout the year, but the especially delicious and memorable items always came around the Holidays. I can attest that Olympia Provisions has captured the spirit of the craft, and has collected a smorgasbord of recipes to entertain even the most discerning charcuterie palate. And I understand the idea of drying raw meat in your garage may seem crazy, but armed with the information in this book, it becomes almost fool-proof and will fascinate with results. I highly recommend this book if you are at all interested in the world of charcuterie.     

Disclaimer: I received this book from Blogging for Books in exchange for my honest review. All opinions expressed are my own. Thank you.

Tofu Fries

Are you looking for a delicious and healthy alternative to greasy, starch-laden, french-fries? Maybe you just want something different? May I present tofu fries. These are extremely easy to make, not to mention economical and better for you.

Start with a package of extra-firm tofu. Remove the block of tofu and wrap in a double layer of paper towels. Place on a plate, then place another plate on top and weight it down with a skillet or can of corn. Wait 20 minutes, then drain off the water that has been pressed out.

Now take the block and slice it into 3/4" sticks. Use about 1/2 cup of cornstarch on a large plate, then roll each tofu stick in the cornstarch to coat. Heat 2-3 inches of oil to approximately 350 degrees. Use a thermometer to make sure! After the oil has heated, fry the tofu in several batches, using tongs to keep them separated. Cook to golden-brown and delicious, approximately 3-4 minutes. Remove the fries and drain on paper towels, then immediately season with sea salt. Serve with Asian ketchup (recipe below).

Asian Ketchup
---------------
1/2 cup ketchup
3 Tbs soy sauce
2 Tbs sesame oil
1 Tbs Sriracha or Sambal Oelek (Asian garlic/pepper sauce)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs fresh ginger, minced

Combine all ingredients, mixing well. Let rest 30 mins before serving to allow flavors to meld.

National Doughnut Day

Today marks the 73rd year of the National Doughnut Day. This day honors the sugary-sweet pastries as well as the women of The Salvation Army who served doughnuts to soldiers in World War I. The "doughnut lassies" as they were called, also continued the tradition by preparing and serving the fried orbs to hungry soldiers in WWII.

The doughnut is the quintessential pastry of America. Doughnuts fly in the face of traditional and snobby European-style pastries. At their foundation, the simple, sweet dough is fried, then topped with anything from simple powdered sugar to fluorescent-pink glaze with candy sprinkles. Whether you're in the mood for a hefty apple fritter or a lightly dusted crueller, doughnuts are an irresistible American icon.

If you'd like to try your hand at being a doughnut lassie, I've included the original recipe used by The Salvation Army way back in 1938. Simple ingredients, simple prep, delicious results. The recipe will make a bunch - so invite the family and friends over, and don't feel limited to serve them just for breakfast, these are delicious any time of the day!

SALVATION ARMY LASSIES’ DOUGHNUT RECIPE

Yield: 4 doz. doughnuts

5 C flour
2 C sugar
5 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
2 eggs
1 3/4 C milk
Oil/Lard for frying

DIRECTIONS

• Combine all ingredients (except for oil) in a large bowl to make a dough.

• Knead dough for 3-5 minutes until smooth and elastic. Shape into a disc, then roll out on a lightly floured board to about 3/8" thick. Cut dough using a 2-3" diameter water glass or metal ring cutter. If you want your doughnuts with holes, use a smaller circle cutter to make the holes in the middle. (When finding items to cut out doughnut circles, be creative!)

• Heat oil until a thermometer reads 375. Carefully drop the rings into the oil, several at a time, cooking in batches to keep the oil temp from dropping too low. Using tongs, turn the doughnuts over slowly to help cook evenly.

• When browned, remove doughnuts, place on wire rack and allow excess fat to drip off.

• Dust with powdered sugar, sugar and cinnamon, drizzle with warm Nutella, maple glaze, chocolate chips, coconut, anything your doughnut dreams desire! Let cool and enjoy.