32 Yolks - From my mother's table to working the line

You may recognize Eric Ripert as a cooking show host, Anthony Bourdain's sidekick, or even as the celebrated french chef who operates the world-renown restaurant, Le Bernadin. He is a regular guest judge on Top Chef, hosts his own cooking show, Avec Eric, and his restaurant has maintained a 4-star rating from the New York Times for over two decades. He has won an Emmy and several James Beard awards. To be succinct, he is an amazing chef with unparalleled dedication to his craft. With this in mind, I have been chomping at the bit to get my hands on his new book, 32 yolks.

Much more than your typical book about a celebrity chef, this book delves in to the incredibly difficult world that Ripert experienced as a child and young adult. At the age of just 15 years, Eric left home to attend culinary school. By 17, he had moved to Paris and was preparing dishes for the 3-Michelin star restaurant, Jamin. The book conveys Ripert's undying love for his home country, while shedding some light on his troubled childhood.  It also does a splendid job of describing the inner-workings and hierarchical form of the restaurants where he worked.

I appreciated that this book was different from so many chef memoirs that seem to focus on alcohol-fueled chefs that throw dishes across the kitchen while trying to keep up with the pace and pressure that is inherent in top restaurants. Instead the reader is provided with thoughtful and genuine insights and experiences that have formed Ripert's brand and ultimately his continued success. You begin to feel as if you know Chef Ripert personally, almost as if you have been "in the weeds" with him on the line. 32 yolks is an excellent example of a chef's life-long journey to provide the world with something memorable and everlasting.

Far Afield - Rare food encounters from around the world

From the moment I picked this book up, I knew it was going to be a feast for the eyes first, and things to tempt the taste buds would be secondary. Amazing photography will immediately bathe you in contrasting textures and rich colors. This is a food-travel book that brings far-off adventures to your coffee table. A handful of recipes accompany each chapter, just enough to bring the essence home without confounding the reader with unobtainable ingredients.

From Kenya to Hawaii, Iceland to a refugee camp in Calais, France. this book is thoughtful, and current without being hipster about it. The travels cover the globe, and they depict food encounters that are genuine and without much staging. It's the kind of book that you enjoy reading a chapter, then ponder the author's experience while imagining the sights and smells in your head. The photography is striking, the travels are enviable, and the recipes are basically gilding the lilly. If you enjoy travel and you also like to eat while you travel, this book will satiate your needs.

Parlez vous en Francais?

Ahhh, who can resist the beautiful tranquility of the French countryside? Rolling hills with gently swaying birch trees, cobblestone pathways, and centuries-old farmhouses decorated with copper pots and pans that evoke feelings of a simpler life, centered around timeless recipes and cooking that didn't need pretentious ingredients or state-of-the-art preparations. French Country Cooking by Mimi Thorisson expertly brings this beauty and simplicity right to your kitchen.

The book begins by describing a hotel restaurant that began over 100 years ago in the small French village of Medoc. After thumbing through the first few pages, I found it hard not to have a bit of lifestyle envy. The photography is wonderful, and does a brilliant job of depicting the countryside coupled with delicious shots of traditional French fare. 

How can you not salivate when presented with recipes for such classics as Beignets with Apricot filling, French Onion soup, and Pot-Au-Feu. The directions are simple enough for "beginners" to attempt, and concise enough for the seasoned home cook or professional chef alike. I made the Gratin Dauphinois, which is a simple potato dish that is absolutely fantastic when done correctly. The subtle autumn spices of nutmeg and cloves marry so well with the creamy yet crispy, earthy potatoes. This is a dish that you can build an entire meal around. The book also includes decriptions of typical drinks such as before and after dinner apertifs. And timeless preparations such as Duck Confit will make you understand why confit has become an integral part of higher-end cooking today. There are a number of tantalizing desserts also await, with sumptuous examples such as Raspberry Souffle, Baked Pears with Chocolate, and Almond Ice Cream. 

I am sure French Country Cooking will be a prominent book in my library whenever I am in the urge to cork a big bottle of bordeaux and do some rustic, albeit refined cooking. It would also find itself suited perfectly for your coffee table. If you have visited France, or even just wondered what this style of cooking entails, French Country Cooking is a perfect choice to explore further. 

There's always room for mushrooms.

October has arrived and the hot weather is waning. The falling leaves are tinted in warm hues of yellow, orange, and red. I know it won't be long until the excitement of the new cookbook season grabs a hold of me. It is very entertaining to see what new books will be hitting the shelves in time for the busy holiday season. To start off the fun I chose the new book from the guys over at 10 Speed Press. I already own a number of their publications, and I have always been happy with each book's layout and the in-depth content, so you pretty much cannot go wrong with their books. The title of this latest entry is Mushrooms of the Redwood Coast.

Almost 600 pages dedicated to the wonderful albeit complicated taxonomy of Coastal Northern California and Oregon wild mushrooms. Over 750 species are described, from the common varieties to more rarer finds. The book is filled with clear and colorful photographs of each mushroom, the book is an instant must-have for anyone looking to brave the elements for wild mushrooms. Each fungi has information about color, smell, texture for identification purposes, as well as edibility notes. If you plan to eat mushrooms you have found in the wild, it is paramount to make sure that the mushroom is indeed safe to consume. For this reason alone, this book is indispensable. It does not read like a typical cookbook, and in fact contains no recipes. It is more of a concentrated focus on location and identification in the most thorough manner.

I have always fantasized about visiting a forest that had endured a wildfire in the previous year, as they say this is when you will find an abundance of wild morel mushrooms. I have yet to pull the trigger on such an excursion, because I did not have an accurate guidebook. Now, with this text in hand, I feel much more confident that I could identify edible varieties and steer clear of the poisonous types. It includes tips on locating mushrooms with descriptions of specific habitats, and presents the material in a user-friendly guide. Sure, this book will not exactly have mass-appeal, however if you are looking to forage in the forest this is the book for you.

The Elements of Pizza

The Elements of Pizza by Ken Forkish is a new publication from Ten Speed Press out of Berkeley, California. This book is a interesting read, providing a little bit of crusty history layered with saucy stories, cheese-laden photographs, and top-notch recipes. I really enjoyed the way the author provided a handful of notably different pizza dough recipes, as it all starts with the crust. Everything from traditional  Margherita and lightly-topped, thin crusted Napoli pizzas, to deep-dish, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink pies.

I experimented with three of the different dough types and every one of them turned out restaurant-quality pizzas for my family. Sure, it takes some time. I found that the best dough is kneaded then allowed to ferment in the fridge for 72 hours before stretching and topping. If you plan ahead, you will reap some serious homemade pizza rewards. Don't fret though, if you just have a fever and the only cure is pizza, there are a few recipes that use dough made the same day. It can also save you a bunch of - wait for it - dough, since you won't be paying $20+ for something that uses about $4 in ingredients. There are also a number of recipes for topping combinations that are sure to delight.

Glorious photographs await inside this book. Some evoking warm memories of family pizza night at the brick-oven joint in town. While others showcase the beauty of typical pizza ingredients, as well as some off the beaten path choices. All in all a fantastic, excellently executed book that succeeds where countless others have failed.



I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Malibu Farm Cookbook - Recipes from the California Coast

Malibu, California is one of those places that cannot be described in entirety until you have actually felt the sand fill between your toes and breathed the crisp, salty-sweet ocean air. About 75 years ago Malibu was a sleepy town, populated with some of the surfing world's greats like Miki Dora and Greg Noll. Fast-forward to today, and you will find a Malibu that has much changed. The beach is still a central focal point, but the population is different. Rich and famous abound, there mind-blowing homes nestled along the coastline. My days as a fine dining server at a local country club taught me that where there are rich people, there is going to be food. Delicious food. Just like the kind you will find being served at Malibu Farm. Situated at the end of a pier, past the locals holding fishing poles, you will find this humble restaurant. Although they are not serving your typical fried fish and burgers - options that always seem to be available at the end of a pier, they pride themselves in preparing locally-sourced produce and sustainable meats, fresh-squeezed juices, and honey harvested from their own bees.

At initial inspection, I thought this book was going to be a snooty, destined to be put on display rather than put to use regularly. The kind of book with insane demands for ultra-fresh and equally rare ingredients. To my fantastic relief, this book is nothing what I had imagined. Sure, the author does put a priority on using amazing ingredients. However the recipes are simplistic and refined, and pleasantly composed. Exactly like dishes that you get from a restaurant. Try the grilled smashed potatoes with parmesan and roasted garlic, a lovely twist for your next side dish. Salmon with grain mustard, and tenderloin of beef with horseradish sound really good as well. One caution though: if you are not moderately confident in your cooking skills, you may find the steps to each recipe a bit confusing and frustrating though. The photographs of Malibu are enjoyable, conjuring up memories of family road-trips to the beach, saltwater taffy wrappers littering our sun-bleached beach towels. The pictures of the food are brilliantly depicted, without the over-polished and staged look that you will find in most cookbooks.

Overall Malibu Farm Cookbook does a terrific job of presenting California flavors in a fresh and humble manner. Even if you have never been to Malibu or California for that matter, this book can take you there without hesitation. Definitely a welcome addition to my cookbook library.




I received this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Around the Fire - Recipes for Inspired Grilling and Seasonal Feasting from Ox Restaurant

It's Spring time and the weather is starting to warm up, at least for those of us living on the west coast. Soon the air around your neighborhood will be filled with tantalizing flavors of grilled meat and vegetables, as backyard BBQ's and gas-fired grills are resurrected. To accompany this year's open-fire cooking schedule, I picked up a copy of Around the Fire cookbook hoping for new recipes and twists on old favorites alike. I have heard great things about the author's restaurant, Ox, which is located in Portland, Oregon. After reading this book, visiting the restaurant has earned a place on my bucket-list. 

Thumbing through the text, I knew almost immediately that this book would make a solid addition to my library. There are books that you just know are going to be worth your hard-earned cash when you see them. My first stop landed on the clam chowder with smoked beef marrow bones, green onions and jalapeno. My taste buds perked right up when I saw that recipe. I think I will save that recipe for the Fall when the leaves have turned and the weather is a bit cooler. Dishes more appropriate for the warm months include grilled maple-brined pork chops and grilled spot prawns with garlic and sumac. Saddle those with a side of grilled sweet onions or portobello mushrooms and get ready for smiles all around your table. For a dazzling ending to an amazing backyard feast, try the cool, clean sweetness of pineapple-cucumber sorbet. The bright flavors of the pineapple coupled with the palette-cleansing abilities of cucumber do not disappoint.

The book has about 100 recipes, so definitely something for everyone, and there is also recipes included for several cocktails and desserts. Even if you do not cook over and open fire often, there is knowledge to be found in this text that will elevate your meals. The recipes are straightforward and focus on execution and preparation. This is one of those books that makes you hungry even though you just finished eating. The included photographs are spectacular, imbibing the reader with colorful images of open-fire cooking from various locales. This is more than a simplistic text about grilling chicken or steak. This is for the next-level home cook that wants to combine the simple and often times humble ingredients into amazing dishes.  

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Lucky Rice - Danielle Chang

Today's book review focuses on the new title, Lucky Rice, by Danielle Chang. The book provides stories and recipes from Asian markets, feasts, and family tables from Singapore to San Francisco. After reading the foreword provided by television celebrity Lisa Ling, I was instantly intrigued. Ms. Ling discusses growing up in Carmichael, California, the same small town that my grandmother lived as it were. Her family opened a Chinese restaurant in the historic old-town part of Folsom, California, the name of the restaurant was Hop Sing. What a surprise as I have been visiting this restaurant my entire life, craving their extra-large egg rolls, and simplistic American-Chinese menu. At Christmas time, there is a large craft fair that draws thousands, and the best part was Hop Sing would sell the jumbo egg rolls packed with cabbage and pork, wrapped in a crispy sleeping bag of won ton, and dunked in the ubiquitous bright red sauce. It is dishes like these that Lucky Rice provides information and recipes. Cuisine that is often much more American than Chinese, but the evolution of this cuisine is the foundation for what "Chinese" food means around the globe today.

The book is smartly divided into sections such as "Street Eats", "Asian Mash-ups", and "Rice Bowls and Beyond." There is even a small section devoted to menu planning and execution. The recipes are accurate and at times simplistic. That is the beauty of Asian cuisine, taking simple ingredients and transforming them into flavors and textures that exhibit complexity and depth. The photography is beautifully executed and the layout of the text is enjoyable and easily navigated.

I am looking forward to trying the "Sumo Wrestlers' Stew", which is packed with chicken, miso, mushrooms, noodles and even potatoes. There are recipes for some of the most popular Asian dishes, such as Ma Po Tofu, and Hawaiian Poke. Even a brief section devoted to desserts (which are limited in Asian cuisines) and cocktails too. Most of the recipes are contained on one page, making them smart choices for busy workers on weeknights, and college students alike. As always, planning and preparation is paramount in this type of cuisine. Trying to work with a blazing-hot wok while you are still mincing garlic and ginger simply won't work. Still, if you are looking for a book that provides concise recipes and clear direction, Lucky Rice makes an excellent choice.




I received a copy of this text from the publisher in exchange for this review.

Koreatown - by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard

Growing up my dad would make us bulgogi using a Noh brand, .69 cent, powdered and packaged marinade. The meat was smoky, sweet, and savory. Coupled with white rice, it was as Korean as my German-born, wurst-and-kraut-raised father was going to get. Although I do give pops some props for even shopping in the Asian markets decades ago. We received our fair share of stares, but as a kid, I didn't care. I was too captivated by all of the things that I had never laid eyes on before. I didn't know how vast and deep the roots of Korean food went. Fast forward 30 or so years, and I am still enthralled by Asian cuisine and cooking as a whole. There are countless books for Japanese and Chinese preparations, but the same cannot be said for the number of quality texts on Korean available. We can now add Koreatown, by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard to that short list.

This book does an outstanding job of documenting the rich food culture of the Korean people, interpreting it through the eyes of Koreatown's merchants, chefs, and passionate fans far all corners and facets of life. If you ask most people what they know about Korean food, they will almost always mention kimchi. The spicy dish composed of pickled and fermented Napa cabbage. This book provides a handful of approachable recipes for kimchis of all sorts, breaking them down into specific steps. There are also tasty looking recipes for the more popular noodle and bbq dishes such as kalbi. I thought the section on "how to cook Korean food at home without pissing off your neighbors" was a nice touch. 

The absolute best part of this book has to the section of recipes provided by guest chefs such as Corey Lee and Sean Brock. These recipes alone are worth the price of the admission. The Coca-Cola and Gochujang (spicy red pepper condiment) Marinated Chicken Thighs and Toasted Rice Ice Cream are on my next-up list for sure. The photography is enjoyable, with large full-color shots that focus on the food and colorful culture of Koreatowns across America. Written cleanly and concisely, this book focuses on building basic ingredients into complex dishes. Just what I want from a cookbook, something that is entertaining to read, informative and useful. 

Overall I know this will be a book that I refer to many times as I explore the wide variety that Korean food offers. The pages spattered with doenjong, the cover adorned with drops of kimchi marinade. My father and I shop at the huge Korean market in a neighboring city when we have the opportunity. The complex features a continental food-court, and as much as I want to try the hamburger wrapped around a hot dog on a stick (true story), I always order the bibimbap. I guess the apple does not fall far from the tree. 

  

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Donabe : Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking

A Donabe is a Japanese clay pot used in cooking. It is extremely versatile, being used as a rice cooker, a steaming vessel, a smoker, and a slow-cooker similar to a modern day Crock pot. They have been used for hundreds of years in Japanese homes and restaurants. Not surprisingly, there are not many English language books that discuss the donabe or it's usage. Becoming an instant authority on the subject, is Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking by Naoko Takei Moore and Kyle Connaughton.

With luxurious photography and precision writing, Donabe presents a beautiful text that is rich with information. A discussion of the six styles of donabe pots and six types of recipes that accompany them is entertaining and educational. I appreciate reading about the history of the pots. The recipe selections are excellent as well, offering cuisine that is simple, rich, and promises to be delicious. A real donabe is not required for the dishes, you can get by with other vessels, however the finished product may lack the beauty and sophistication that the clay pot brings to the table.

My attempt of the recipe for Chicken Hot Pot turned out fabulously. It was an exquisite take on chicken soup, deep with soul-warming flavors. Some preparations require ingredients that may not be easily sourced at the local supermarket, even in the ubiquitous "Asian food section." Also, you can adapt other recipes to the donabe, do not be limited by the traditional Japanese recipes. I used it to slow cook pork ribs in a delicious BBQ sauce.

Donabe is a wonderful book, full of delicious cuisine and dramatic photography. This is certain to be a resource for me for a long time. Luckily, my wife perused my copy, and thought it a wonderful idea to give us a new donabe for our anniversary gift to ourselves. I can't wait to employ it in a number of dishes.

 

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Book review - This is Camino by Russell Moore & Allison Hopelain

I set out upon the new cookbook This is Camino with eager anticipation and excitement. After all the award-winning restaurant critic Jonathan Gold had proclaimed that chef Russell Moore is "the ninja of California live-fire cooking." The cover depicting the chef prepping his mise en place in front of a vast cook top, a roaring fire the centerpiece. I was instantly intrigued.

Camino is a restaurant in Oakland, California. It specializes in elegant, Northern Californian style food, heavy on locally and responsibly sourced produce and meats. There are also some recipes that transcend the Bay-area-centric fare, with Old World favorites such as the home cured Sauerkraut, and the Roast Duck Consomme. The authors provide plenty of insight into the development and execution of the restaurant's recipes. I will definitely be trying the Herb Jam recipe, and I was pleased that the majority of the recipes are not out of reach for the home cook. Sure there is some snobbishness, and a bit of hipster-dogma amongst the pages, but it does not take away from the text. I did find a few things on the pretentious side, such as the author describing his love of preserved lemons, even adding them to dishes wherein you cannot taste them. Adding an ingredient should have always have a purpose, I believe. Also in description of the Grilled Chicken Ballotine, the author says that they "needed to make our chicken main-course a little fancier, so that we could charge enough for the pricey Riverdog chickens." 

There is an excellent part in the middle of the book that describes in glorious detail what it is like to work and run the restaurant for one day. It gives the reader an idea of the large number of moving parts a restaurant has, and how one innocent mistake can cause a complete shift's worth of stress. There are recipes for starters and main dishes, as well as a small section on dessert and cocktails. The latter seemed to be an afterthought though, and that is fine with me. If I wanted a book on mixology, I would get one. The book notes that the recipe for Doughnuts was taken from another book entirely, albeit with several small changes. It made me wonder if they were just reaching to fill pages. There are about 75 recipes total in the book, which is not a lot. However it is enough to give you an idea of the chef's focus on hyper-fresh, local ingredients. I did enjoy the discussions on using everything you possibly can from your ingredients with ideas for utilizing the "waste."

Overall, this was an enjoyable read and I am certainly going to attempt a few of the recipes. Visiting this restaurant in the near future is on my list as well, as it is only about a 90 minute drive for me. Bottom line, if you are at all interested in Bay-area cuisine with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients prepared with an open fire, as well as some time-tested favorites with a California flare, this book will prove satisfying. 

I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Lucky Peach presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes

Chinese food, or rather American "Chinese" food has a certain mystique surrounding it's preparation and ingredients. The same can be said for really any type of Asian food, from Japanese to Thai or Vietnamese. This often equates to home cooks leaving it for the "professionals" at the ubiquitous strip-mall food joints, mall food courts, and street food vendors. What if I told you that armed with one book, and only one book, you could unlock the secrets behind the preparations of your favorite dishes, and do it from the comfort of your home? Oh and that the recipes easy to prepare. Sounds too good to be true, I know. Many have tried, few have prevailed, that is for sure. You could spend a lifetime studying volumes of information in search of that perfect Kung Pao chicken recipe. But thanks to the guys behind my favorite food magazine, Lucky Peach, we now have an accelerated course in Asian food 101 with their new publication "Lucky Peach presents 101 Easy Asian recipes."

I love the style of writing in this book. It is both informative and interesting to read, along with a hilarious sense of humor. For example, the back cover shows a finished dish with a text bubble exclaiming "100% inauthentic! The recipes are succinct, the steps pared down to the essentials. The book eschews deep-frying and sub-recipes. They spell out exactly what you will need as far as equipment (wok, rice cooker, maybe a mortar and pestle if you are fancy). Where the book really shines is within the descriptions of pantry items, and they include pictures to help when you are shopping at the mega mart and don't know your miso from your tamari. The pantry items are separated into three levels, from beginner to expert. Certain to impress your friends and family. 

The photography is excellent too, capturing the simplicity and deliciousness of each recipe effectively, and making you hungry all the while. Try the pesto ramen for a delicious and easy weeknight meal, or simmer a pot of hot and sour soup on a cold, rainy day. From breakfast to dessert, this book covers all of your favorites. So kick down for a $20 wok next time you are near a Chinatown (I bought mine in San Francisco - hand hammered, carbon steel that only gets better with use) or Amazon that bad boy and get to work. Let this book be your guide in to the wonderful world of Asian cuisine. 

I received this book from Blogging for Books in exchange for my honest review.