Tuesday, December 20, 2016

32 Yolks - From my mother's table to working the line

You may recognize Eric Ripert as a cooking show host, Anthony Bourdain's sidekick, or even as the celebrated french chef who operates the world-renown restaurant, Le Bernadin. He is a regular guest judge on Top Chef, hosts his own cooking show, Avec Eric, and his restaurant has maintained a 4-star rating from the New York Times for over two decades. He has won an Emmy and several James Beard awards. To be succinct, he is an amazing chef with unparalleled dedication to his craft. With this in mind, I have been chomping at the bit to get my hands on his new book, 32 yolks.

Much more than your typical book about a celebrity chef, this book delves in to the incredibly difficult world that Ripert experienced as a child and young adult. At the age of just 15 years, Eric left home to attend culinary school. By 17, he had moved to Paris and was preparing dishes for the 3-Michelin star restaurant, Jamin. The book conveys Ripert's undying love for his home country, while shedding some light on his troubled childhood.  It also does a splendid job of describing the inner-workings and hierarchical form of the restaurants where he worked.

I appreciated that this book was different from so many chef memoirs that seem to focus on alcohol-fueled chefs that throw dishes across the kitchen while trying to keep up with the pace and pressure that is inherent in top restaurants. Instead the reader is provided with thoughtful and genuine insights and experiences that have formed Ripert's brand and ultimately his continued success. You begin to feel as if you know Chef Ripert personally, almost as if you have been "in the weeds" with him on the line. 32 yolks is an excellent example of a chef's life-long journey to provide the world with something memorable and everlasting.

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Friday, December 9, 2016

Far Afield - Rare food encounters from around the world

From the moment I picked this book up, I knew it was going to be a feast for the eyes first, and things to tempt the taste buds would be secondary. Amazing photography will immediately bathe you in contrasting textures and rich colors. This is a food-travel book that brings far-off adventures to your coffee table. A handful of recipes accompany each chapter, just enough to bring the essence home without confounding the reader with unobtainable ingredients.

From Kenya to Hawaii, Iceland to a refugee camp in Calais, France. this book is thoughtful, and current without being hipster about it. The travels cover the globe, and they depict food encounters that are genuine and without much staging. It's the kind of book that you enjoy reading a chapter, then ponder the author's experience while imagining the sights and smells in your head. The photography is striking, the travels are enviable, and the recipes are basically gilding the lilly. If you enjoy travel and you also like to eat while you travel, this book will satiate your needs.

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Thursday, October 20, 2016

Parlez vous en Francais?

Ahhh, who can resist the beautiful tranquility of the French countryside? Rolling hills with gently swaying birch trees, cobblestone pathways, and centuries-old farmhouses decorated with copper pots and pans that evoke feelings of a simpler life, centered around timeless recipes and cooking that didn't need pretentious ingredients or state-of-the-art preparations. French Country Cooking by Mimi Thorisson expertly brings this beauty and simplicity right to your kitchen.

The book begins by describing a hotel restaurant that began over 100 years ago in the small French village of Medoc. After thumbing through the first few pages, I found it hard not to have a bit of lifestyle envy. The photography is wonderful, and does a brilliant job of depicting the countryside coupled with delicious shots of traditional French fare. 

How can you not salivate when presented with recipes for such classics as Beignets with Apricot filling, French Onion soup, and Pot-Au-Feu. The directions are simple enough for "beginners" to attempt, and concise enough for the seasoned home cook or professional chef alike. I made the Gratin Dauphinois, which is a simple potato dish that is absolutely fantastic when done correctly. The subtle autumn spices of nutmeg and cloves marry so well with the creamy yet crispy, earthy potatoes. This is a dish that you can build an entire meal around. The book also includes decriptions of typical drinks such as before and after dinner apertifs. And timeless preparations such as Duck Confit will make you understand why confit has become an integral part of higher-end cooking today. There are a number of tantalizing desserts also await, with sumptuous examples such as Raspberry Souffle, Baked Pears with Chocolate, and Almond Ice Cream. 

I am sure French Country Cooking will be a prominent book in my library whenever I am in the urge to cork a big bottle of bordeaux and do some rustic, albeit refined cooking. It would also find itself suited perfectly for your coffee table. If you have visited France, or even just wondered what this style of cooking entails, French Country Cooking is a perfect choice to explore further. 

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Monday, October 10, 2016

There's always room for mushrooms.

October has arrived and the hot weather is waning. The falling leaves are tinted in warm hues of yellow, orange, and red. I know it won't be long until the excitement of the new cookbook season grabs a hold of me. It is very entertaining to see what new books will be hitting the shelves in time for the busy holiday season. To start off the fun I chose the new book from the guys over at 10 Speed Press. I already own a number of their publications, and I have always been happy with each book's layout and the in-depth content, so you pretty much cannot go wrong with their books. The title of this latest entry is Mushrooms of the Redwood Coast.

Almost 600 pages dedicated to the wonderful albeit complicated taxonomy of Coastal Northern California and Oregon wild mushrooms. Over 750 species are described, from the common varieties to more rarer finds. The book is filled with clear and colorful photographs of each mushroom, the book is an instant must-have for anyone looking to brave the elements for wild mushrooms. Each fungi has information about color, smell, texture for identification purposes, as well as edibility notes. If you plan to eat mushrooms you have found in the wild, it is paramount to make sure that the mushroom is indeed safe to consume. For this reason alone, this book is indispensable. It does not read like a typical cookbook, and in fact contains no recipes. It is more of a concentrated focus on location and identification in the most thorough manner.

I have always fantasized about visiting a forest that had endured a wildfire in the previous year, as they say this is when you will find an abundance of wild morel mushrooms. I have yet to pull the trigger on such an excursion, because I did not have an accurate guidebook. Now, with this text in hand, I feel much more confident that I could identify edible varieties and steer clear of the poisonous types. It includes tips on locating mushrooms with descriptions of specific habitats, and presents the material in a user-friendly guide. Sure, this book will not exactly have mass-appeal, however if you are looking to forage in the forest this is the book for you.

Saturday, August 6, 2016

The Elements of Pizza

The Elements of Pizza by Ken Forkish is a new publication from Ten Speed Press out of Berkeley, California. This book is a interesting read, providing a little bit of crusty history layered with saucy stories, cheese-laden photographs, and top-notch recipes. I really enjoyed the way the author provided a handful of notably different pizza dough recipes, as it all starts with the crust. Everything from traditional  Margherita and lightly-topped, thin crusted Napoli pizzas, to deep-dish, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink pies.

I experimented with three of the different dough types and every one of them turned out restaurant-quality pizzas for my family. Sure, it takes some time. I found that the best dough is kneaded then allowed to ferment in the fridge for 72 hours before stretching and topping. If you plan ahead, you will reap some serious homemade pizza rewards. Don't fret though, if you just have a fever and the only cure is pizza, there are a few recipes that use dough made the same day. It can also save you a bunch of - wait for it - dough, since you won't be paying $20+ for something that uses about $4 in ingredients. There are also a number of recipes for topping combinations that are sure to delight.

Glorious photographs await inside this book. Some evoking warm memories of family pizza night at the brick-oven joint in town. While others showcase the beauty of typical pizza ingredients, as well as some off the beaten path choices. All in all a fantastic, excellently executed book that succeeds where countless others have failed.



I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Friday, April 22, 2016

Malibu Farm Cookbook - Recipes from the California Coast

Malibu, California is one of those places that cannot be described in entirety until you have actually felt the sand fill between your toes and breathed the crisp, salty-sweet ocean air. About 75 years ago Malibu was a sleepy town, populated with some of the surfing world's greats like Miki Dora and Greg Noll. Fast-forward to today, and you will find a Malibu that has much changed. The beach is still a central focal point, but the population is different. Rich and famous abound, there mind-blowing homes nestled along the coastline. My days as a fine dining server at a local country club taught me that where there are rich people, there is going to be food. Delicious food. Just like the kind you will find being served at Malibu Farm. Situated at the end of a pier, past the locals holding fishing poles, you will find this humble restaurant. Although they are not serving your typical fried fish and burgers - options that always seem to be available at the end of a pier, they pride themselves in preparing locally-sourced produce and sustainable meats, fresh-squeezed juices, and honey harvested from their own bees.

At initial inspection, I thought this book was going to be a snooty, destined to be put on display rather than put to use regularly. The kind of book with insane demands for ultra-fresh and equally rare ingredients. To my fantastic relief, this book is nothing what I had imagined. Sure, the author does put a priority on using amazing ingredients. However the recipes are simplistic and refined, and pleasantly composed. Exactly like dishes that you get from a restaurant. Try the grilled smashed potatoes with parmesan and roasted garlic, a lovely twist for your next side dish. Salmon with grain mustard, and tenderloin of beef with horseradish sound really good as well. One caution though: if you are not moderately confident in your cooking skills, you may find the steps to each recipe a bit confusing and frustrating though. The photographs of Malibu are enjoyable, conjuring up memories of family road-trips to the beach, saltwater taffy wrappers littering our sun-bleached beach towels. The pictures of the food are brilliantly depicted, without the over-polished and staged look that you will find in most cookbooks.

Overall Malibu Farm Cookbook does a terrific job of presenting California flavors in a fresh and humble manner. Even if you have never been to Malibu or California for that matter, this book can take you there without hesitation. Definitely a welcome addition to my cookbook library.




I received this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Around the Fire - Recipes for Inspired Grilling and Seasonal Feasting from Ox Restaurant

It's Spring time and the weather is starting to warm up, at least for those of us living on the west coast. Soon the air around your neighborhood will be filled with tantalizing flavors of grilled meat and vegetables, as backyard BBQ's and gas-fired grills are resurrected. To accompany this year's open-fire cooking schedule, I picked up a copy of Around the Fire cookbook hoping for new recipes and twists on old favorites alike. I have heard great things about the author's restaurant, Ox, which is located in Portland, Oregon. After reading this book, visiting the restaurant has earned a place on my bucket-list. 

Thumbing through the text, I knew almost immediately that this book would make a solid addition to my library. There are books that you just know are going to be worth your hard-earned cash when you see them. My first stop landed on the clam chowder with smoked beef marrow bones, green onions and jalapeno. My taste buds perked right up when I saw that recipe. I think I will save that recipe for the Fall when the leaves have turned and the weather is a bit cooler. Dishes more appropriate for the warm months include grilled maple-brined pork chops and grilled spot prawns with garlic and sumac. Saddle those with a side of grilled sweet onions or portobello mushrooms and get ready for smiles all around your table. For a dazzling ending to an amazing backyard feast, try the cool, clean sweetness of pineapple-cucumber sorbet. The bright flavors of the pineapple coupled with the palette-cleansing abilities of cucumber do not disappoint.

The book has about 100 recipes, so definitely something for everyone, and there is also recipes included for several cocktails and desserts. Even if you do not cook over and open fire often, there is knowledge to be found in this text that will elevate your meals. The recipes are straightforward and focus on execution and preparation. This is one of those books that makes you hungry even though you just finished eating. The included photographs are spectacular, imbibing the reader with colorful images of open-fire cooking from various locales. This is more than a simplistic text about grilling chicken or steak. This is for the next-level home cook that wants to combine the simple and often times humble ingredients into amazing dishes.  


I received a copy of this book from the publisher in exchange for my review.