Friday, March 25, 2011

Pulled pork


I've watched the first several episodes of NBC's new show "The Next Great Restaurant" featuring Bobby Flay and Chipotle founder Steve Ells, and I've been amazed at the contestants chosen to participate, in particular their lack of food knowledge. I found myself thinking, "how can you expect to meet a customer's expectations when you don't know what it is that you're preparing?" I especially get a smug grin when the couple presenting their restaurant idea of quick and fresh Bar-B-Que, that can be ordered "tapas style" (small amounts of several dishes). The spokesperson of the pair seems to be Krystal Seymour - as her partner tends to stay quiet and nod uneasily in approval. Their restaurant named "Hick's" would embrace the American redneck, while serving classic comfort food. And this is where it gets interesting, and entertaining I might add. Ms. Seymour seems to have a deep-rooted affinity for pulled pork, the quintessential BBQ food that is typically bathed in sauce and stacked high on a hamburger bun.

The glaringly obvious problem is that neither of these people know how pulled pork is made, or what "real BBQ" is in fact. At the onset of the show, the judges made it painfully clear that they were looking for a new restaurant that would be similar to the fast-paced line of the famous Chipotle restaurants. The food has to be fresh, able to be quickly prepared and served, all while being delicious, satisfying, and most important of all - be able to generate return customers. Bar-B-Que doesn't fit that bill. True BBQ requires a lot of time to prepare, with a pork shoulder requiring anywhere from 6-12 hours in the box to get that smoky taste and fall-off-the-bone tenderness.

On the last episode, the pair changed the name of their concept restaurant, in an attempt to emphasize their menu offerings, and when challenged about the food by celebrity chef Bobby Flay, Seymour says they will offer a variety of delicious meats that are quickly and freshly "grilled". Again puzzled, the judges try to ascertain if the pair understands that BBQ and grilling are two entirely different cooking styles. And during the exchange, Ms. Seymour again brings up that she wants "pulled pork" on the menu. You can see that Flay is chuckling inside and trying to refrain from laughing on camera. The next question posed asks if they intend to use gas grills or charcoal-fired versions. They both look at each other trying to read each other's eyes for the proper response. He replies "gas." And she blurts out "charcoal." You would think that before you arrived at this stage, you would have at least researched your menu and what it takes to create the dishes!

The problem is a lot of people go in to a restaurant, enjoy their experience, and think that they could do it themselves. Or they pull off a great recipe on a random weekend, their friends tell them it's the best they've ever had, and that they should open a restaurant. The problem being that it takes so much more to open and achieve success in the food industry than many people realize. Hence the consistent turnover in the restaurant business. So maybe this is a solid premise for a TV show. The judges have also indicated (ad nauseum) that they will be "investing" in the winning restaurant concept that will see three restaurants opened across the US, with Los Angeles, New York, and Minneapolis being on the receiving end. To what extent remains to be seen, and I'm sure there's some super-duper fine print to the contracts the contestants would have to sign, giving at least partial-ownership to those with the deep pockets.

The show has been entertaining so far, and hopefully some of these ideas will blossom and we will be able to really see the concept take off! Until then, let's hope that Ms. Seymour has erased pulled pork from her menu (or at least her vocabulary) for the time being. And if the pulled pork is worth going to a restaurant for, I don't want a tapas-sized serving! Could that be another concept flaw? We shall see. In the meantime, you can make your own pulled pork with this easy recipe - and maybe you'll be on your way to opening your own BBQ joint, in your backyard.



BBQ Pulled Pork
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5-6lb pork shoulder or butt roast
4Tbs yellow mustard

Spice Rub
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1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup paprika
3Tbs salt
2Tbs pepper
1Tbs cayenne
1Tbs garlic powder

Trim pork roast of any loose fat and skin. You want to leave the meat with a good amount of the fat left on, as this will keep the meat moist while it is smoked/cooked. Spread yellow mustard all over the roast. This will help the rub adhere to the meat. Mix all ingredients together for the rub, then apply liberally and massage in to the meat. Place in a zip-lock bag or wrap in plastic and leave it in the fridge overnight.

Fire up your BBQ (gas-powered grills are NOT BBQ's and cannot be used here). Soak some hickory or mesquite chips in a bucket of water for about an hour (you can find these at Walmart in the sporting goods section). When your coals have stopped flaming and are glowing nicely, spread a handful of the wood chunks on the charcoal and adjust the airflow so that you have a fire about 200-225 degrees. Do not let the Que get hotter or it will dry out the meat. BBQ the pork 1-1.5 hours per pound. Aim for an internal meat temp of 165, but I let it go low and slow until the meat begins to fall apart. That's how you know it is done. Remove from the BBQ and place a sheet of foil over the meat, allow to rest for 30 minutes. Now you can easily shred the meat with a pair of forks, or just use your hands to break the meat down. At this point you can add your sauce if you like it wet, or just enjoy the savory smokiness that made this meat so popular! I like mine with plenty of pickles and fresh coleslaw on top. And use a quality bun if making sandwiches as those cheap-o enriched buns will fall apart once the sauce invades!

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Good bread is hard to find.


Last night I had the pleasure of viewing a documentary titled "Kings of Pastry" which described the prestigious Meilleurs Ouvriers de France, which roughly translates to the "Best craftsman in France" contest. The "MOF" competition is held once every four years, and out of 70 applicants from around the world for this year's competition - only 16 were chosen to compete. The film follows several master pastry chefs as they prepare for a three day competition in which they must produce a sugar sculpture, a smaller sculpture called a "bijoux", numerous cakes, chocolates, cream puffs and a wedding cake just to name a few. The pressure and stress that these artists endure is insane! Creating a showpiece while several world-renowned judges look over your shoulder has got to be challenging.

I've always been amazed by the passion and craftsmanship that European bakeries knead in to their creations. My father was born and raised in southern Germany, so I am no stranger to "good bread" and "real pastry". He considers bread to be a building block of society. Upon my last trip to Bavaria, I saw one of the new "instant bakeries" that have caused such a commotion. These large vending machines actually "bake" your rolls to order while you wait, and they have stirred a heated debate over how bread should be sold in Germany. An uproar over bread you say? Yes. And it's quite serious. It is this passion and zeal for top-quality pastry that drives the chefs depicted in the documentary. My father knows no boundaries when it comes to acquiring that "certain taste" and texture he holds so dear. However it is painfully obvious that the US does not hold these staples in such high regard as our eastern brethren. There are options though - my father orders his loaves by the dozen from a German baker in Texas, and has them shipped FedEx to his door. Which makes each loaf cost about $15 dollars, but that is a pittance if you truly appreciate good bread.

Slowly we are seeing an increased interest in pastry, and I'm not referring to the plethora of "cupcake shops", or those "cakes" made from foam and massive chunks of Rice Crispy treats, that seem to be the rage in America. Those cakes wouldn't make it through the door of any self-respecting patisserie or bakery in Europe. Maybe good bread is hard to find due to the recent war on carbs, but I think it runs deeper than that. True, many Americans have not experienced anything other than "Wonder bread" with the crusts cut off, but is it any surprise since our global economy continues to squeeze out the little guy while replacing their hand-crafted baguettes with enriched-flour breads that are shelf-stable for weeks?

The documentary was very entertaining and I found myself gasping several times throughout the show, both at the amazing creations and their subsequent destruction. It also lends some insight into the serious nature of baking cakes. I chuckled when one of the chef's presented his cake to a colleague for his review. The chef analyzed the texture, the height, the artistic qualities etc, and then provided his feedback to the stress-laden chef. His response? "The cake is really yellow. It's a bit odd." The creator looked slightly deflated, and explained that the color of the egg yolks in France were much more yellow than those in the USA, causing the yellow hue to be more pronounced. The cake looked delicious, and certainly the yellow crumb was not overstated, but it's just another example of the precision and artistry that these chefs demand and expect of their pastry - and their chefs!

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

What's in a name?

Social media has forever changed how, when, and why people communicate. This blog and so many others like it are a prime example. Let's take "restaurant reviews" as an example. Not-so-long-ago, you would have had to wait for the local newspaper's critic to visit the eatery, and print their review, often weeks or months after they had actually been at the restaurant. Sometimes, by the time the review went to print, the restaurant would be no longer in business. That issue is no longer present with instantaneous reviews by "distinguished" food critics and amateurs alike on blogs or "review" sites like Yelp.com. But can you really trust what you read on such sites? Lately I've witnessed an increase in people racing to post where they are eating, drinking, socializing etc on Facebook. You know, when you see "such and such is at _______(insert hip and uber trendy restaurant or bar here).

I find it confusing at times, since several of my "friends" that enjoy updating the world with details about where they are, seem to be the same ones who post about losing their "personal privacy". But alas, that is another subject for another day. Recently someone posted a "check-in" for the popular sushi restaurant in Sacramento, Mikuni. Only they had spelled the name of the restaurant incorrectly, labeling it "MUkuni". I chuckled a bit to myself, then clicked on the link to make sure I was thinking about the same place (Sacramento definitely has it's fair share of sushi places, and some have very similar names.) To my amusement and dismay, there had been 293 other people that had "checked-in" over the last few months, all of them misspelling the name of the place they were so eager to tell everyone about. It really made me think that people are in such a race to post where they are at and what they are doing, that they truly don't know where they are. I mean, you walked into the restaurant, big sign out front, name plastered all over the menu, napkins, chopsticks...but hey, ignore all of that and get to posting!

My issue not being the misspelling itself, but of the preoccupation with social media and this incessant need by some to post updates every few hours. My recommendation, when you go to your next restaurant, leave your phone in the car, or at least turn it off while you dine. Try something different from the menu. Read the wine list. Ask the waiter/waitress to describe the specials. And before you log-in and grace everyone with the knowledge of where you are stuffing your face, make sure YOU know! There's more to dining than just checking-in.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Chocolate Stout Cake




If you're a fan of dark beers, particulary stout, you already know that they feature rich and delicious flavors such as toffee, chocolate, caramel, oatmeal, and coffee. Combine these flavors into a chocolate cake, and you have the makings of something sensational! When choosing a stout to make this cake with, the standby is Guinness. But feel free to get something *special* - such as a Samuel Smith's chocolate stout, or one of the micro-brewed bottles increasingly appearing on store shelves.


1 cup Stout

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter

3/4 cup cocoa powder

2 cups AP flour

2 cups sugar

1.5 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

2 large, organic eggs

2/3 cup sour cream


Preheat oven to 350. Butter inside of bundt pan or two 8" round pans and set aside. Bring stout and butter to simmer in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat to cool slightly. Add cocoa powder and whisk until smooth.


Whisk flour, sugar, soda and salt in large bowl and set aside. Using electric mixer, beat sour cream and eggs until smooth. Add stout mixture slowly, and beat to combine. Add flour mixture in three parts, beating again on low speed until combined. Break out your rubber spatula and give the batter a few folds to ensure all is mixed well - pour into prepared pan. Bake on center rack for 30-35 minutes, until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted. Allow cake to cool 10-15 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. You can then top with any ganache or icing you like, or just use some powdered sugar on top for a simple and elegant presentation.

Eating like a Leprechaun

It's here, the 17th of March, and unless you have been living under the blarney stone, that means one thing: Saint Patrick's Day! Aside from wearing green so you don't get pinched, it struck me that a lot of people don't know what this day celebrates, let alone how to celebrate it properly (with good food, beer, and company). I'll also work-up a recipe for "Chocolate Stout Cake" for those that are feeling adventurous!

St. Patty's Day is a public holiday in Ireland, and is generally characterised by attending church services, eating and drinking traditional Irish fare, and the lifting of Lent's restrictions on fasting and drinking. Saint Patrick lived during the 4th century where at the age of 16 he was captured by Irish raiders and taken to Ireland to be put into slavery. He ultimately escaped, then returned as a bishop, to Christianise the polytheistic Irish. Folklore describes how he used a green shamrock to explain the Holy Trinity to the Irish people. He became legendary after his death on March 17th, 461.


Corned beef. The mere mentioning of the name will draw blank stares and wrinkled noses a lot of people. And to set the record straight, corned beef DOES NOT come from a can. You know, the stuff that resembles Alpo with tiny cubes of potato? Real corned beef starts as beef brisket. It is then brined in a saltwater and spice solution for 7-21 days. Only then is it ready to be braised slowly, with mustard seeds, peppercorns, bay leaves and some cloves. I use a 50/50 mix of water and light beer to braise brisket. After the braise is complete, remove the meat, and you'll find the fat will have almost completley dissolved and you're left with a glorious slab of tender, juicy, beefy goodness. Use the braising liquid to cook your potatoes, cabbage, carrots and parsnips, then bring it altogether for the final meal. Serve the meat with some horseradish or spicy mustard. Enjoy the simplicity of the meal, being sure to savor the flavors of the Old World. If there's any leftovers, you have the perfect makings of corned beef hash for the weekend, or slice it up and stack it high on some rye bread for a tasty Reuben sandwich.


Which brings us to Irish beverages to help wash down that delicious and hearty meal. Most people when asked to name an Irish beer will guess Guinness, the dark stuff that 80% of Ireland's barley crops are destined to become. Somewhere around 1759 Guinness appeared in Ireland, and a short 10 years later it was being shipped across the ocean, leaving Dublin destined for England. Those that have enjoyed a proper pint of Guinness will often tell you that it is "thick" or "heavy", and it's usually these same people that will tell you that because it is so dark and has that creamy mouth-feel, that it packs a higher alcohol punch. Not true. In fact Guinness comes in at around 4.4% alcohol by volume. Compare that with 5% ABV that's in a standard Budweiser. Just because beer is darker, does not necessarily mean it will have more alcohol. Guinness is carbonated using nitrogen, which is common practice for "stout" style ales. Almost all other types of beer employ carbon dioxide for carbonation. It is this difference, the nitrogen, that is largely responsible for that creamy and silky texture. Calories are a different story, but there's only about 15 calories difference between the Guinness and a Coors Light! I know which one I'd rather have.


Happy Saint Patrick's Day everyone! Eat, drink, and be merry!



Wednesday, March 2, 2011

They killed Sutter Street




On a recent weekend outing to Folsom, CA with my family I had the opportunity to enjoy lunch at Samuel Horne's on Sutter Street. I also observed two things that disturbed me. First off, they killed Sutter Street. In the quest for increased traffic ($$$) and visitors ($$$) to the Historic area, somehow it was decided that they should widen the street, cut down the trees, and remove the overhangs and the plank walkways that made Sutter Street, well, historic. Sutter Street 2.0 now sports a few additional parking spaces, and European-inspired outdoor seating. Nothing says "the Wild West" like stamped concrete! It was this same seating that was being occupied by what appeared to be vagrants, or maybe they were hangovers from the prior night at the Sutter Club. Either way, this was not the Sutter Street I had grown up with. Sure, Snook's candies and the Folsom Hotel are still there, but the ability to envision this famous place as a once-bustling town at the turn of the century has been paved over by the brilliant minds of the folsom city council.



After I walked in disbelief of the construction, I picked my jaw up off the ground and headed to Samuel Horne's for a cold pint. This place is pretty cool, decorated with historic beer memorabilia, and anchored by a beautiful bar with about a dozen shiny draught beer taps featuring the likes of "Hoptimum Ale" from Sierra Nevada and "90 minute IPA" from Dogfish Head Brewery. Draught offerings are written on the wall, with descriptions of color and bitterness/hoppy-ness as well.

There's at least 100+ more bottled beers available too, with some hard-to-find and off-the-wall tastes to be had for sure. The lunch menu was short and sweet, with burgers and sandwiches the fare. I had the "Johnny Cash" burger, paying homage to the original man-in-black who made Folsom Prison infamous. It featured a good size patty with BBQ sauce and thick-cut bacon. A side of crispy fries flanked the burger. It came without lettuce, tomato, onions - which I thought it needed. The BBQ sauce was on the sweet side, reminiscent of Sloppy Joe gravy, and without the produce to shield the bun from sogginess, it began to fall apart on me early. It was good, but not the best I've ever had. But I didn't go there for the food anyhow, I was after the local beers. A great offering is their local brew happy hour, where all beers made within 100 miles are half-priced. Now that's dangerous. My hamburger was $8, beers averaged $5/pint.

While waiting for lunch to arrive, a mother and her teen-aged daughter sat down at the table next to us. They were both wearing spandex and biking shoes, likely out on a "mother-daughter" date. Mom stared blankly at the menu, while daughter toyed with her mobile phone. Mom obtained the daughter's order which I thought was a feat in itself since the girl did not even look up from her phone, too transfixed on her tiny screen, thumbs battling over the mini-Qwerty keyboard. A short time later, mom returned with an iced tea and a glass of white wine for herself. White wine? At a pub that is blatantly beating you over the head with their extensive list of beers? *sigh* OK. Food arrived quickly after that, and of course I spied their decisions. A hamburger for mom and a tri-tip sammy for daughter. Decent order I thought to myself, there might be hope yet. Then I observed that daughter had still not looked up from her phone, although she was somehow able to insert her ipod headphones in an effort to completely block out the surrounding world. Mom now had her ipod fired up and headphones plugged in too! Daughter ate half her sandwich, mom put a little larger dent in her burger. Iced tea was gone, I'm sure daughter was parched from not talking to anyone with her mouth and only her thumbs all day. Mom maybe took two or three sips from her chardonnay. Maybe she was expecting something with a more pronounced hop character?

I guess my parents Victorian-era request that we not have ANY distractions at the table, no matter where that was, is totally outdated. For all I know, mom and daughter were talking to each other through their phones, but is that an adequate substitute for true personal exchange? It brought me to this troubling thought: people don't celebrate each other enough, let alone food. In this age of status updates, incessant tweeting and increased competition for your attention, it's nice to have a place you can rest and enjoy a good meal and spend some time connecting with your friends and family, not downloading them. Make that place the dinner table.

Welcome!

On more than one occasion, it has been suggested by a number of friends that I start a blog. I would always chuckle while thinking to myself what a double-edged sword that idea presents. I do enjoy writing a great deal, and I like to think that I'm "above average" when it comes to conveying my thoughts in written form. And the latter part of that sentence gives us the second edge of the sword - my opinions. Like many, I have lots of opinons, and you will likely see evidence of them while reading this blog. Sarcasm is a must. It's natural (hopefully) that you will agree with most, and disagree with some although in a few instances there will be those that totally agree with me at all times, and that's fine too. So here we are. My blog. I hope you enjoy your time here, maybe get a chuckle or two, and hopefully take something away with your thoughts.

This blog will primarily deal with topics related to two of my passions, Food & Beverage(s)! I love everything that is the vast world of topics dealing with what we put in our mouths. I love to cook, and I created my personal chef business almost two years ago with the goal of bringing freshly prepared meals using local ingredients to the busy households of Sacramento. Equally as fascinating is the topic of beverages. In particular, beer. To get even more particular, craft beer. I am an avid and passionate homebrewer. To me it is the perfect marriage of culinary skill and science. And while wine has enjoyed the spotlight when it comes to "pairings" with food, I think craft beer is going to make it's presence known and become the next "it" thing to do. The idea of beer as we know it is changing at an incredible rate, and with micro-breweries, pubs, and tasting rooms popping up left and right, it is a subject that demands more attention. So if you have ever wanted to know more about food and beer, this is the place for you!